The only thing a cafe must ultimately do is serve coffee and light fere worthy of your patronage, as the sign promises. Trusted Hanoi spots of this genre include "La Place," "Au Lie," and "Cafe Mocha." And then there is ambiance - indispensable and wholly particular to the mood. Enter Hanoi's lakeside cafes for a taste of quality cushioned In ambiance.

On Hoan Kiem:

The small outdoor "Highlands Cafe" at the south end of Hoan Kiem Lake is a chain, but presents itself as a unique and pleasurable setting, and the coffee is all from Vietnam. The latte comes hot (a good start) delivered by perfectly well-mannered staff who seem yet unjaded by the high volume.

"It's all Italian technology," says the manager of the speedy, fresh service coming from behind the bar, And there's no doubt it's all made by careful hands because the steamed milk comes picture-perfect, even under the occasionally heavy Hanoi mist.

Highlands has everything going for it in location. In fact, it may technically be the best in town as far as lakeside cafes go. You are steps away from the water and surrounded by trees. At dusk, low lights reflect off the surface of the lake.

Address: Not numbered.
Where Ly thai Tho meets Pho Trang Thi.
Prices:: Mid to high range. (This is European calibre)
Take the latte for 23,000 dong.
Hours: 7am to 11pm

Just up Ly Thai Tho from the Lakeside Highlands is the Hoan Kiem mainstay, "Thuy Ta Cafe." It's impossible to miss and you will be sorry if you do. Just walk in and sit. There always seems to be a table despite the throngs on the sidewalk. The seating, on a large, sweeping terrace right on the water, is literally lakeside. Ngoc Son Pagoda ts practically in your lap and you are only steps away from popular Hang Dao Street.

But Thuy Ta doesn't try to be so much a cafe as it does simply to be among "the best of Hanoi," promising good Vietnamese staples. Bypass the daquiries and pasta. The hot tea is steaming, the cold beer ready at a moment's notice and served by proficient staff in tidy blue uniforms. On the premises is a patisserie of sorts second to none. Nothing behind the glass will disappoint And don't rule out the spring rolls, another specialty so simple yet so very satisfying.

Address: 1 Ly Thai Tho
Prices: Mid to high range.
Hot Black Tea w/lemon: 8.000 dong, Croissant: 5,000 dong.
(2,000 dong to park your motorbike if you have one)
Hours: 6am to 11pm

On Truc Bach

Up and coming in Hanoi is diminutive Truc Bach Lake, 10 minutes from Hoan Kiem through the Old Quarter. There are 36 establishments on the water at True Bach with the word "cafe" in their name, so there's no lack of choice.

'Tho Xuong Quan," along the north side of the lake, caters to an established Truc Bach clientele who mass in the afternoon at low bamboo tables to debate anything, with no small amount of interest, over traditional Vietnamese food. And while the special menu of locally made brandy may push the standard fare of a cafe, Tho Xuong Quan still manages to mingle "cafe" with hot breaded spring rolls.

Owner Quan says his uncle makes the brandy (or at least some of it displayed in the window), and judging by the taste, he's a master. Quan will even pour a 15-year-old house specialty all the way from Dien Bien Phu and Toast with you. The recipe is a secret but involves ginseng, fruit, and rice aged in glass.

Address: 158 Tran Vu
Prices: Mid to high range.
Brandy: 30,000 dong. Spring Rolls: 20,000 dong
Hours: noon to "sometimes late into the night"
according to Quan.
Toast: "chuc sue khoe" (health to you)

At the other end of the spectrum on Truc B